It is not rocket science, it is not difficult, but it is different from typical houseplant culture. While most houseplants do come from tropical regions, just like orchids, they are for the most part terrestrial. Orchids, by in large, are epiphytic, requiring a more precise duplication of their natural environment for success. The average conditions inside your home are NOT particularly similar to those natural environments save for the absence of freezing weather. Therefore, a certain amount of effort must be expended in coming up with creative solutions to improving the conditions around your indoor orchid plants if they are to prosper for you. This doesn’t necessarily mean a big investment in materials and equipment – there are many low tech options that will suit your orchids just fine, and we will explore some of these in this discussion.

What orchids are suited for indoor culture?

There ARE limitations as to which kinds of orchids will do well with any growing situation, be it indoors, a greenhouse or outdoors. Tropical orchids come from many different climate niches, some are easy to duplicate within the confines of your home, while others are nearly impossible. (For sake of this presentation/discussion we will deal with home culture in the specific climate of the Southeast USA.)

The one factor that above all else governs which orchids will do well inside the home is temperature. We control the temperature in our homes to be comfortable for US, and aren’t likely to make drastic changes for the sake of our orchids outside the range that suits people. Luckily, there are many orchids which adapt very well to the 65 to 80 degree range that most of us keep our houses. But two groups are NOT the best choices: Cool growers – come from higher altitudes in the tropics and are MUST have temps in the 50’s at night and not over the 70’s during the day to perform well over the long term. High warmth growers – that come from near sea level in the deep tropics, often need more warmth than we are comfortable with and higher light levels that we can provide in the home.

The efficient control of orchid virus diseases depends on rapid and accurate diagnosis, followed by the
destruction of diseased plants. The symptoms produced by orchid viruses depend on the particular viruses
and strains involved; the hybrid, species, and genera of orchids infected; the age of the leaves; the time
of year; and the environmental conditions. The same virus may cause widely different symptoms on
different genera, e.g., a flower breaking on the blossoms of one genus, a bar mottle or other symptoms
on another genus. Virus-like symptoms also may be produced by thrips on Vanda and by scales and mites
feeding on Cymbidium leaves. Abnormal nutrition and fungal infections also produce virus-like
symptoms.

Symptoms in flowers may also be mistaken for those caused by a virus. Aphids and thrips have been
reported to damage Cymbidium and Vanda flowers, respectively. Thrips injury is very similar to a virus
disease in Vanda orchids. Some virus-infected plants may show no symptoms. Such symptomless plants
are excellent virus “carriers” for they go unnoticed in the greenhouse. Under adverse conditions, these
symptomless plants may develop strong symptoms. Virus symptoms also may vary between plants that
are grown under different conditions. Plants infected with more than one virus also express variable
symptoms.
Growers should be familiar with the common orchid virus diseases. Much worry can be overcome by
isolating suspect plants and employing stringent control measures. These factors make the diagnosis of
orchid diseases difficult.

Symptoms
1. Leaf necrosis, black streak. Lead necrosis, caused by the cymbidium mosaic virus, is probably
the most common virus disease of many kinds of orchids. Infected plants have irregular, brown-toblack,
elongated spots and streaks of dead tissue on both surfaces of older leaves (Figure 1C and
1D). Infected leaves that show symptoms tend to age quickly and dry up. Flowers from such plants
are usually symptomless, but they may open in an unthrifty manner. If the leaves die prematurely,
the flowers are usually fewer in number and of smaller size. Diseased plants are usually less
vigorous; however, not all infected plants show symptoms. Spread of the virus is usually via
contaminated pruning tools. No insect vector is known.
Leaf necrosis affects Cattleya and its hybrids as well as many species of Angraceum, Cymbidium,
Epidendrum, Laelia, Oncidium, Spathoglottis, and Zygopetalum.
Certain strains of the tobacco mosaic virus also produce leaf necrosis on Cattleya (Figure 1B),
Cymbidium (Figure 1E), and other orchids that closely resembles symptoms produced by the
cymbidium mosaic virus.
2. Mild flower break. This is caused by a strain of tobacco mosaic virus. Mild flower breaking is
much more common in Cattleya than is severe flower breaking. Affected plants have much less
variegation in the flowers than plants infected with severe flower break. The flowers are not
malformed, and the leaves have only mild mosaic symptoms. The means of transmission of this
virus is unknown.
Mild flower breaking has been reported on about 30 species and hybrids of Cattleya. This virus also
produces spots and rings of dead tissue on the leaves of Odontoglossum and diamond mottle on
Cattleya, Cymbidium, Odontoglossum, and Phalaenopsis. Diamond mottle is distinguished by
elongate chlorotic areas that are often diamond-shaped. Older leaves sometimes develop brown to
black flecks and streaks.

Ant eliminator

1. Melt ¼ pound of candle wax, then slowly stir ¼ cup sugar and 4 ounces of Boric
Acid Powder. When thoroughly mixed, pour into a pan, creating a ¼ to ½” slab.
Cut into chunks and distribute around the greenhouse. Keep away from children
and pets.

Fungicides

Cinnamon Powder –has many medicinal uses and is a known natural fungicide.
1. Powder –can be applied directly onto the affected part of the plant by dusting
heavily.
2. Paste –mix powder with cooking oil to form a thick paste that can be put directly
onto the cut parts of the orchid.
3. Spray –combine 2 tablespoons of cinnamon powder into a pint of isopropyl
alcohol, shake well and let stand overnight. Filter solution through a coffee filter
and use the brown liquid as an all purpose fungicide spray. It is even good for
damping off of deflasked seedlings. For a combination fungicide/insecticide –put
1 cup of the cinnamon/alcohol extract into a pint bottle, add 2 tablespoons of
dishwashing detergent and top off with water. Use as a spray.

All Purpose Disinfectants

1. Listerine or Hydrogen Peroxide –For crown rot or other infected areas, pour directly
onto the infected area and let stand for 5 minutes. Tilt the plant to remove the excess
liquid.
2. Chlorine Bleach –add 1 once of household bleach into a gallon of water. Spray the
solution directly onto cutting tools, benches, walkways, and even onto the plants.
Bleach will help to control fungus, bacteria, and algae.
A. Sterilize used pots with a 10-15% bleach solution, let stand overnight. Make
sure that all white roots are removed with a scouring pad, as they may contain
viruses.

Slug and Snail Treatments

1. Traps –put a plate or saucer full of fresh beer on the floor, snails and slugs will
be attracted to it, fall into it and drown.
2. Spray –Mix left over coffee 50/50 with water or stronger and spray. It seems to work
well on the tiny bush snails.
3. Baits –put slices of raw potatoes near the plants. Slugs and snail can be collected in
the morning.
4. Barriers –create barriers in your growing areas to prevent slugs and snail from
crawling onto the benches. You can put sandpaper, copper foil, Tree Tanglefoot, or
even Diatomaceous Earth, onto the legs and tops of benches.

Weed Herbicide

1. Spray full strength household vinegar on weeds, repeat daily as needed. This is
not to be used for weeds growing in the pots of the orchids. Use only on the
greenhouse floor, surrounding areas, walkways, driveways, etc.

Using pesticides in this manner can potentially develop resistant strains of disease organisms and cause harm to your orchids, yourself, and the environment.  The main goal, as I wrote in  previous article is to grow and produce beautiful orchid plants and flowers for our own personal enjoyment. This article will provide easy alternative methods in treating many of the common pests of orchids.

The Orchid disease prevention  could be found in your kitchen or bathroom cabinet!

Please remember that you are using them at your own risk. I am not making any

endorsements, and I take no responsibility for your orchids or for any bodily injury.

There has been no scientific study done on application rates, toxicity levels, or target pests.

Use with caution and experiment on a few orchids first. Even though these are homemade

remedies, they are still chemicals and personal protection is still important. Use caution when

applying. Never apply any of these remedies in the heat of the day as they can potentially burn

the sensitive tissue of the new growths and flower buds. Do not apply any chemicals on

hirsute (hairy) orchids. Do not store any left over mixtures, doing so in an infraction of federal

labeling laws, which require identification and caution statements.

Insecticides

Soft bodied insects, such as mealy bugs, aphids, and thrips

1. Straight 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol –touch insects with a soaked cotton swab or

spray entire affected area of plant. Repeat every two to three days. Apply in the early

morning or late afternoon, when cool. A typical sprayer top can be put on to the

alcohol bottle.

2. Garlic/Pepper Spray –liquefy 2 bulbs of garlic and 2 hot peppers in a blender ½ to 2/3

full of water. Strain and add water to make 1 gallon of concentrate. Use ¼ cup

concentrate per gallon of water.

Hard shell insects such as scale, also for spider mites

1. Mix 1 to 3 teaspoons of cooking oil and 1 teaspoon of liquid dishwashing soap

into a quart of water. Shake well and spray plant thoroughly wetting the affected

surfaces. Repeat every 2 to 3 days. The soap will breakdown the waterproof

coating of the insects’ shell and the oil will smother them. Apply only when cool.

General purpose sprays

1. Water –When watering use high pressure to water heavily, wet all parts of the orchid,

especially under the leaves. Water will disrupt the feeding and egg laying of white

flies, mealy bugs and spider mites. When repotting if you find a scale infestation, use

high pressure to remove scales off of pseudobulbs.

2. Neem Oil –acts as an insect repellent, as well as a fungicide, nematacide, and

even molluscicide!

2. Fantastik or Formula 409 –Add 1 cup of the household cleaner/degreaser, with 1

cup of rubbing alcohol, and mix with 2 cups of water. This solution can be

sprayed directly on all affected areas.

4. Orange Plus household cleaner –can be sprayed undiluted.

Physiological Disorders and orchid diseases

It is important to identify physiological disorders of orchids and recognise from orchid diseases. These are ailments that are not caused by insects or disease, but are caused by poor culture. Some examples of this are; excessive sunlight (sunburn) or not enough sunlight, improper watering, salt or wind damage, temperature stress, and root die back (from of old media). In every case, it is up to the grower to supply the proper environmental conditions for the various orchids we are growing. Spraying of chemicals will not remedy any physiological disorder.

Insects and orchid diseases

It is very important that you watch your orchids carefully and take care of problems as they occur. Most insect problems (aphids, thrips, spider mites, and mealy bugs) occur in the warm summer months and will feed on soft new growth and flowers. Onwe of the best time to spot problems and orchid diseases is while you are watering. If you stay on top of things, spot spraying of these home remedies may be all that is needed to rectify the problem.
a. Try to maintain a spotless growing location. Remove all faded flowers and dead leaves promptly, as they are a major source of infection and orchid diseases. Sanitation is the best defense against insects and orchid diseases.
b. Control weeds and pests in and around your growing area. Weeds and other plants in the collection often harbor insects that can transmit orchid diseases.
c. Maintain good air circulation. Stake up all orchids and provide adequate spacing between them.

Orchid diseases

For an orchid diseases to occur the causal agent or pathogen must be present in an infectious stage and come into contact with the host plant. The environment conditions must favor the infection and the plant must be susceptible. So our goal is to break the cycle of infection. The most common orchid diseases are bacteria, fungus and viruses. Here are a few ways to control them.
a. Water orchids early in the day, allowing them to dry before nightfall. Do not let puddles of water accumulate around your growing area.
b. Avoid the temptation of watering newly repotted orchids. During repotting, any part of the orchid that is cut or damaged could provide a path of entry for orchid diseases . Water is a great carrier of bacterial and fungal orchid diseases.
c. Maintain proper sanitation when handling your orchids. It is very important to sterilize all potting implements such as; pruning shears, stakes, pots, table top, and your hands).
d. Quarantine new orchids for at least two weeks and isolate diseased ones from the rest of the collection to prevent from orchid diseases.

If necessary, adjust the growing location to help your current orchids perform to their very best.
You’ll have to pay attention to the time period of the year to know what the orchid requires. Inside the next content articles series, I will provide you with a rundown of the season, month’s time by month. Be aware: You can’t be too precise with the timing of this proper care schedule, because countries vary with climates from the cold north region to semitropics.

October

• Some cattleya and their relatives and hybrids are going to be in bloom at this time. And so will some moth orchid kinds and hybrids and oncidiums.

• As days will begin to shorten and also the angle of sunshine gets lower in the sky, place the orchids in your windowsill or greenhouse in order that they capture the most light.

• For greenhouses and windowsills, be sure the glass and also glazing surface is clear. This can certainly create real change in light transmission.

• Growth will begin to slower on a lot of orchids from decrease temperature and brightness, so reduce watering and also fertilizing appropriately.

• Get prepared for winter season. Protect the greenhouse. Purchase a standby urgent situation gas heater.

Within the habitat there are about fifty species of Cattleya .Right from the Central America, thriving over the Amazon region to the south of South america. Its various unique plants and also the tendency of those plants growing in big colonies indicates they’ve already been intensely over-collected and the existing status of numerous cattleya orchids is certainly endangered.

Those cattleya orchids develop powerful ‘pseudobulbs’ topped with more than one leathery leaves. On a yearly basis a dormant bud at the base develops in a completely new shoot, which thickens to produce the current year’s pseudobulb. All of the cattleya flowers arise from the tip of the present year’s growth and are available within a range of shades from white as well as pink to green and also purple. Some basically flower double yearly.

Hybrids

Hybrids are actually carefully bred over the years and many of which are super easy to grow as well as simple to bloom. More than forty additional a genus that has been bred in to Cattleyas and notably including Sophronitis has been used to introduce scarlet and Brassovola for the frilly lip.

Temperature and Humidity

The minimum night temperatures of 10 -15 C that will depend on the plants’ origin but the growth in the summer time is fast at temperatures around twenty six C. In case of a humid atmosphere propelled by a fan is beneficial.

Light

In the green-houses, the standard optimum is 50% of the full sunshine or 2000-3000 foot candle lights. In case there is warm weather always shade adequately to ensure that the leaves are cool to touch. In case you will be raising in the house constantly give a bright condition but not strong sun light which may be done behind fabric curtain from April to September. It may also develop into great conservatory flowers as long as summer shade and very good air movements can be given.

Watering and Fertilising

From March to September the potting mix should never be allowed to dry out completely. Always water two times every week and try to fertilise fortnightly using a advised orchid fertiliser. From October to February, no fertiliser is needed, but always waters the plants if the potting mix looks dry out. It will always be better to underwater as the plants can easily remain neglect more than over watering!

There are people who often ask just what exactly differentiates an orchid from another plant? There are certain aspects which would help people to distinguish an orchid out of any other flower. Many of us usually annotate simply on those which usually are simple to recognize simply by seeing. An important element of an orchid is the fact that, it truly is irregular and also zygomorphic plants. The perianth about it is it is usually clearly separated into an top and a lower half. The perianth always has half dozen lobes which are generally organized in a pair of whorls of three. The lip or labellum of an orchid is a outstanding and really confusing lobe. A significant exception is our African genus Disa, that has a basic and rather insignificant lip. The majority of the orchid plants twist by 180° right before they open up. This specific movement of an orchid is actually called as resupination which is essential because the lip is initially developed on the upper part. After the resupination it is situated on the lower part which will is much more advantageous for successful pollination. Unlike most of the other flowers the pollen grains of an orchid stick together and form masses named pollinia. The ovary of an orchid, when cut open, contains several teeny ovules, which in the mature capsule develops straight into dust-like seeds. This incorporates a symbiotic relationship with fungus that reside inside their plant’s roots, named mycorrhiza.

The orchids typically grow in a multitude of various habitats, such as bushveld, savanna, karooid scrub, thorn scrub, fynbos and grassland, just like in lots of other flower groups, the Western Cape is where most of the kinds occur. If you want to raise Southern African orchids, cultivation information can also be found with the descriptions of many of the genera. The majority of the African orchids are terrestrial.

On my learning road I have read lots of books, forum post, web tips and so on… trying to find that perfect books which will provide all useful information on orchids growing.

But after long researching I can say that there is no book that can provide it all for you and as you grow in this wonderful hobby, you will want to check on more of the wonderful resources available, but I have found couple very well written and organized books on orchids growing. these books covers some basic informational needs, from selecting a good starter plant on to its care and maintenance. These books gives you that basic knowledge to get you started. It allows you to start at any point you want, from repotting to purchasing, or just understanding what you need to know about orchids.  It uses simple terms and written in an easy style that does not send you running to the dictionary with every turned page. This is a tell-all book where all secrets are revealed.Check out my top orchids books list.

For Best for Beginners:

No.: 1 Orchid Care Revealed

No.: 2  Orchid Secrets Revealed

No.: 3  Orchid Care Expert